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After a while i really wanted to make a pcb (or let a manufacturer produce it for me, like jlcpcb) and going from 1 idea to the next, i settled on making this somewhat universal usable pqfp-100 adapter board. The Z80 cpu was something i already had laying arround for a project, but dint want to spend too much design time if it where a dud.

Well, after designing the board, waiting a week or so. Soldering my first ever pqfp(or tqfp alike) it works ☺️ some wires to a generic z80 testboard and its walking the memory space for new instructions (all nop).

Now i need to programm a eeprom and get that pio and sio working. The pcb should also work for a RTL8019AS-LF network ic i got for a retro pc build.

Hello,

I decided to make my first remote controlled car design on KiCad, please do provide feedback. I'm using components such as an NRF24 modules, an L289N motor driver, and a stand alone AT328P.

The one thing that worries me greatly is I didn't add a connection to the reset pin on the AT328P, I left it floating, and upon further research, it is recommended to have a 10k resistor connected to 5V to the reset pin, otherwise it might reset randomly or not work. Is this true? I already ordered it so I'm afraid I can't do anything anymore if that's the case.

Thanks!

Here's a Microchip ATSAMD21G18A in a WeMos Arduino M0 clone, and here's the 48.007MHz clock brought out on a GPIO for inspection. That's the 32768Hz xtal oscillator multiplied by 1465 in the on-chip PLL.

I used a center tap transformer to step down the 110v to 9v AC, then I made a full bridge rectifier and smoothed it out with an electrolytic capacitor. Then, I used a Zener diode to regulate it to a smooth 5v. From my calculations, it has only a variation of .2%! Now I need a burner phone to test it on.

I finally decided to replace the tip of my Hakko FX-901 (the iron that runs on AA batteries). I’ve soldered all sorts of stuff with it over the years.