Reddit:Electronics

Couple weeks ago I had one of the bigger oofs of my life, my crane remote fell of the back of my truck in deep sand, missed it during my walk around and I back over it with my 30,000lbs truck. Dang

A new replacement from the IMT dealer would have been 2550$. The remote is an Omnex t150 made by Eaton, they made them in a variety of different configurations, as luck would have it I could not fined a used one set up like mine. Upon closer inspection the board and switch panel for the remote were intact. The housing, proportional control switch and the ESD were done though. I rigged a toggle switch to the ESD circuit and was able to connect the radio to my crane reciever and activate the crane functions(minus the proportional solenoid on the hydraulics because that switch was wrecked)

I went on eBay and managed to find a t150 that was for a different machine than mine but the housing was the same. The board and the switch front plate were different. I figured I can switch it all over to the new remote and use the ESD that came with the remote. Hardest part was safely removing my board from the old housing. It was potted in there with exposu Using a heat gun, exacto knife, diagonal cutters on the housing and patience, I got the board out, plugged it into power supply and tested its connection with my crane reviver again before moving forward.

I was less careful with the other board as I would not be using it. Got it right out. One thing that was a different was on my old remote the power from the battery pack on the housing came around from behind the board plugged into a connection on the top side of the PCB whilst the new remote had wires soldered to the back. I cut the pigtail connection out of the old remote and soldered it to the wires on new one and then checked to make I had proper battery voltage. I potted the new board in and replaced two bent toggle switches on the front panel with two good ones off the parts remote and made new gaskets for it all and assembled it all and tested it out! It works! And I have a fresh remote now.

Only bummer was the ESD button on the new remote did not function properly, it's a open when depressed stitch, closed when pulled and when pulled the connection was intermittent, I modified the old one to work temporarily and I just ordered a new one of those. All in all I am glad I saved over 2000$

I am stumped by this potentiometer manufacturer. Internet searches reveal no information. This dual concentric stack has a manufacturers label on the back C.C.M. & Co. Ltd. There is a type CG. indicated. The middle wiper is switchable. The two two pots are 50K and 500K.

18 x 2n2222 transistors

Works with basically everything, the sound card is from a usb-c headset

So I sort of bought all the resistors here by ordering 3 times and forgetting about the first 2 times. Atleast they are not all the same value. Altough i bought double the sets on 2w. Atleast i wont need too be buying resistors anytime soon.

So I wanted a nice and small proximity sensor module for my gesture-driven lights switch project, and found this nice device from ST: VL6180X proximity and ambient light sensor. There are newer sensors in VL53* family, but they lack ambient light part which is nice to have for a smart home device.

I've purchased a couple of test modules from Amazon (https://www.amazon.com/vl6180x/s?k=vl6180x) and shortly found that ALS (light) sensor produces garbage output no matter which software library is used.

After many hours of debugging and online search I've found out the reason: many modules sold on Amazon, AliExpress, etc, marked as VL6180X are actually VL6180. Which is exactly the same device in terms of pinout, software interface, etc - but lacks the ALS sensor.

The visual difference is prominent - VL6180X does have third large optical window in the center (which is the ALS sensor), while VL6180 does not. However, many many vendors sell cheaper VL6180 as VL6180X, as shown on the picture and on half of the modules on the Amazon link above.

So if you also want a proximity/ambient light sensor - look carefully at what you buy.

My Ibanez WD7 wah half-died (see: i damaged it). The "special" IC that created the effect (NJM2777) got damaged due to overvoltage. After trying a couple of circuits, this one is the one that won!

V2164 (Quad-VCA) used with single supply, and TL072 for virtual ground and control voltage inversion. PCB milled at work's CNC (yes, i'm privileged😁)
Quick 3d print to hold it in the casing (using existing screw ofc) and back in action!

So happy i could rescue my 15year old beloved beast with ~€7 in parts (and saved ~150 for a new wah!)

After a while i really wanted to make a pcb (or let a manufacturer produce it for me, like jlcpcb) and going from 1 idea to the next, i settled on making this somewhat universal usable pqfp-100 adapter board. The Z80 cpu was something i already had laying arround for a project, but dint want to spend too much design time if it where a dud.

Well, after designing the board, waiting a week or so. Soldering my first ever pqfp(or tqfp alike) it works ☺️ some wires to a generic z80 testboard and its walking the memory space for new instructions (all nop).

Now i need to programm a eeprom and get that pio and sio working. The pcb should also work for a RTL8019AS-LF network ic i got for a retro pc build.