Reddit:Electronics

Wire bondings are the wires which connect the pins on the package to the silicon.

No instructions except a few pictures online. Cheap kit. The yellow caps had polarity printed on them so I checked which mounting holes went to ground on the board. No hints printed on the board to help. Works good on a battery but plugged into a cheap car charger it makes nothing but static due to the dirty power.

https://preview.redd.it/3xmb1xn38d5d1.jpg?width=1477&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=c785bee1b3e19df4cb8a9a478bab96ffaba95564

I'v built a circuit that use PIC mcu and CCD to measure the width of things (tube) without using micro meter. the result is quite good. However there's a little point I'll improve later. just to make it best tools.

Bit of a laugh... Random sh&t post...

Knocked up a quick and dirty UV light to try and cure some Chinese solder mask... (Don't ask lol) Running a LOT of UV LEDs And an LM317 with no heatsink... it's dissipating rather a bit of power... 24v supply 🤣

In fact I expected it to blow up 10 mins ago...

Currently sitting on 135degrees C. I could heat my damn coffee on it...

Yet it's still working... Damn... 😂🤣😂🤣😂🤣

Hello, is there any way to remove.the water proof coating from this?

Teensy 4.0 microcontroller reads manifold absolute pressure and crankshaft position and actuates fuel injector. Fuel injector is driven by a TI LM1949 in conjunction with a Darlington pair. System is installed on a Predator 212 small engine, which was originally carbureted.

I know its not super interesting, but I always had a lot of those cheap and small 6mm potentiometers, shown in the pictures, lying around in my lab. They get the job done, but they dont fit into a breadboard very well, so I decided to create an Upgrade for them using my 3D Printer and soldered Dupont Wires to them. It makes it just so much more convenient for prototyping with my arduino. I uploaded the files on printables: https://www.printables.com/de/model/900579-6mm-potentiometer-based-rotary-controller maybe some of you that have a 3D Printer and the same potentiometers will find them helpful.

This is a custom coil tester for the "buzz" coils found on Model T fords. (I added an image to the gallery of the coils)

The basic functionality is, supply a voltage (between 6 and 30 volts) for a 3ms burst and monitor the current for when it peaks, the time from applying the voltage to when the current drops off is the "time to fire". The coil can then be adjusted in line with specifications.

These PCBs can also measure input voltage and capacitance of the coils.

The MCU is a TSSOP20 STM32F042 and a ACS712 is used for current sensing.

This setup has been validated using Arduino based PCBs for quite a while, this is an evolution of that to make use of an STM32 (mainly for a personal project)

Notes : - yes I need to clean the flux (I ran out of alcohol cleaning solution, and nowhere local stocks any) - yes the fuse has been bypassed (as soon as I get one I'll install it)

The clock was from a kit, and the record is an Edison record, 80 RPM and 1/4" thick. This record is undesirable and not collectible, so it can be sacrificed for this project.

I used a Dremel to cut the rectangle and the clock is held in by superglue. I plan to add more detail, so this is kind of a prototype.

You've seen plenty of "record clocks" but none with a digital display.

This is an attiny85 based IR interpreter i made, it is completely open source (repo and patreon on first comment). The board works, and quite well actually. Planning to distribute some pre-assembled board after a bit of testing. But now it’s time to design a case!

https://www.instructables.com/SMD-Part-Test-Jig/

I should probably stop abusing all my flush cutters.

Schematic and explanation how it works: https://danyk.cz/hodiny_en.html

Finally finished a project that took way too much time to complete.

I made a big 7-segment display clock (1470x480x51mm) with the use of WS2812B LEDs and ESP32 as the brain. Since the clock is meant for inside use, the frame was built out of four 12mm plywood boards stacked together. There is also a 3mm acrylic sheet inbetween, which is used as protection for the light diffusing film for LEDs. There is a big cutout in the back, where all of the electronics are mounted inside of a 3D printed case. There are three tactile switches on the case, which are used for setting the clock in access-point mode or to update the program via FTDI.

Since the clock is using ESP32, it gets its time from an NTP server. I made a simple web interface for it, where some settings can be changed (WiFi credentials, NTP server, LED color/brightness...). Besides displaying the time, it also displays date and temperature, which is taken from the DS18B20 sensor that is attached to the outside of the case.

The design itself is very bad from the aspect of manufacturing, since there are a lot of easy improvements that could be implemented to shorten the time needed to assemble it. The clock is also not suitable for outside use, not only because of the main frame (wood), but also because of the fact that the LEDs are not bright enough for the clock to be useable during daylight hours.

Thia is a controller for shutters that failed and was given to me for repair. The component on the left is a mains voltage bridge rectifier. Two mosquitos decided to try and short it out. Did not end well for them.