Reddit:Electronics

So I sort of bought all the resistors here by ordering 3 times and forgetting about the first 2 times. Atleast they are not all the same value. Altough i bought double the sets on 2w. Atleast i wont need too be buying resistors anytime soon.

So I wanted a nice and small proximity sensor module for my gesture-driven lights switch project, and found this nice device from ST: VL6180X proximity and ambient light sensor. There are newer sensors in VL53* family, but they lack ambient light part which is nice to have for a smart home device.

I've purchased a couple of test modules from Amazon (https://www.amazon.com/vl6180x/s?k=vl6180x) and shortly found that ALS (light) sensor produces garbage output no matter which software library is used.

After many hours of debugging and online search I've found out the reason: many modules sold on Amazon, AliExpress, etc, marked as VL6180X are actually VL6180. Which is exactly the same device in terms of pinout, software interface, etc - but lacks the ALS sensor.

The visual difference is prominent - VL6180X does have third large optical window in the center (which is the ALS sensor), while VL6180 does not. However, many many vendors sell cheaper VL6180 as VL6180X, as shown on the picture and on half of the modules on the Amazon link above.

So if you also want a proximity/ambient light sensor - look carefully at what you buy.

My Ibanez WD7 wah half-died (see: i damaged it). The "special" IC that created the effect (NJM2777) got damaged due to overvoltage. After trying a couple of circuits, this one is the one that won!

V2164 (Quad-VCA) used with single supply, and TL072 for virtual ground and control voltage inversion. PCB milled at work's CNC (yes, i'm privileged😁)
Quick 3d print to hold it in the casing (using existing screw ofc) and back in action!

So happy i could rescue my 15year old beloved beast with ~€7 in parts (and saved ~150 for a new wah!)

After a while i really wanted to make a pcb (or let a manufacturer produce it for me, like jlcpcb) and going from 1 idea to the next, i settled on making this somewhat universal usable pqfp-100 adapter board. The Z80 cpu was something i already had laying arround for a project, but dint want to spend too much design time if it where a dud.

Well, after designing the board, waiting a week or so. Soldering my first ever pqfp(or tqfp alike) it works ☺️ some wires to a generic z80 testboard and its walking the memory space for new instructions (all nop).

Now i need to programm a eeprom and get that pio and sio working. The pcb should also work for a RTL8019AS-LF network ic i got for a retro pc build.

Hello,

I decided to make my first remote controlled car design on KiCad, please do provide feedback. I'm using components such as an NRF24 modules, an L289N motor driver, and a stand alone AT328P.

The one thing that worries me greatly is I didn't add a connection to the reset pin on the AT328P, I left it floating, and upon further research, it is recommended to have a 10k resistor connected to 5V to the reset pin, otherwise it might reset randomly or not work. Is this true? I already ordered it so I'm afraid I can't do anything anymore if that's the case.

Thanks!

Here's a Microchip ATSAMD21G18A in a WeMos Arduino M0 clone, and here's the 48.007MHz clock brought out on a GPIO for inspection. That's the 32768Hz xtal oscillator multiplied by 1465 in the on-chip PLL.

I used a center tap transformer to step down the 110v to 9v AC, then I made a full bridge rectifier and smoothed it out with an electrolytic capacitor. Then, I used a Zener diode to regulate it to a smooth 5v. From my calculations, it has only a variation of .2%! Now I need a burner phone to test it on.

I finally decided to replace the tip of my Hakko FX-901 (the iron that runs on AA batteries). I’ve soldered all sorts of stuff with it over the years.

Created this pcb to learn how to drive SRM.

Firmware is open source though. A small (52x30) PCB to forward USB HID reports over BLE. Plus additional buttons and a rotary encoder.