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I know my soldering needs some work, but it works as expected. My gf has this cheap lint remover that was wired directly with a usb A cable. I wanted to make it wireless and also add the option to work while plugged in to charge. I used a TP4056 for charging and an XL3608 to boost to 5v. I added a AO3401 MOSFET to switch between usb and battery power seamlessly. Here is my post asking r/AskElectronics if it will work, it includes a Falstad schematic and a diagram (with visuals) that makes more sense for me. I ended up removing the 1000uf capacitor as it was bogging down the boost converter on startup. Other than that my (With some help from Gemini) design works perfectly.

A antenna tuner circuit which incorporates the resistance of the panel meter light into the accuracy of the meter. One must wonder why they would do this. They no longer support this unit so the bulb is hard to find. It is an axial lead bulb much like a axial lead resistor. I could replace the bulb with a resistor that is the same ohms as the bulb, I suppose. No back lit meter then but at least the meter would work again. Dumb design.

i had one mechanical keyboard after getting bored i tried to reverse engineer it but i couldn't send any usb data or i could not see much on the terminal when i tried to see if it listens to the data and after opening i saw that it only takes +5v and gnd plus the processor something like BYK.. was a hard coded chip that doesnt listen notes i was newbie to hardware and really scared to try anything. so i gave up but seeing my brother have a kreo rgb keyboard it gave me some boost to open it up and i learned so much and burnt my hand while trying to solder.

heck i even burnt the solder iron's wire itself (sniff sniff whats that smell).

so the plane was that i would use a mcu as esp 32 or pico that listen to my command and can do anything that i want .

first month really ....

i bought a mulitmeter and did the traces of all the rows and col sicne there was no pcb and other design files there i didnt know how keyboard matrix works at all i went rhough whole thing.. after getting all the traces and nothing them i was really soul scattered by the fact how this whole thing worked but then i got to know this was a common thing everyone knew this.

after this i took pico as the main mcu why...

1. it was small
2. it has higher clock speed.
3. it was one sale since the esp was on boom and the price of pico was dropped
4. it has more computer power that i needed for Fourier transform for disco light that i wanted for the custom rgbs i would put there

quickly after that i ran into a problem of less gpio also

after that i took a longer time to solder since i was learning and it was very scarry to solder on the pcb but as i did i grew more confident .. after burning my finger prints.

i bought a io expander because of 6 rows and 17 cols it got burnt and again tried that was jittering the one signal was affecting other signal. so i gave up 3-4 cols and went for the gpio full on.

The RGBs... Hardest

the rgb i had to cut each rgb strip stick them all on each keys then use the single core wired without the cover and solder each joints aroung 300 small pieces of them total 600 joints appx and it was tough because heating one end would make other end heat up also.

but since i cascaded 100 of them the voltage kept decreasing and it was 0.5v at the end so i just provided supply from both of rows and it worked and there was no deeming and jitters.

thats it... if u want to know about the logic behind it then u can ask me i will add it most of things and testing and all the stuff is in the video

I had a lego pack sitting around that I has sorta messed up years ago for somthing, desided see if I could jam a 9v to 5v converter in it, to say the least I sorta went way smaller than I actually needed, in theory it can take 1.5 amps, I wont get even close to that using it, to help with the heat it has some copper sheet attached the sits against the AA to help spread heat from it, parts used are two 10UF caps, ceramic 0.47UF on 9v side and a ceramic 0.1UF on the 5v side, the souldering is a little rough, but this is the smallest thing Ive ever made by far, Im sure it would be better if I did it a few times.